There was just enough work room between the manifold's runners (I have small hands). I recently did this job, and used a 3/8" 19mm deep socket to remove the sensor from the head. This sensor's wiring connector housing fits inside a 19mm deep socket, which then engages the sensor's brass hex fitting. Save yourself on both aggravations, just get an intake manifold gasket if the sensor needs to be replaced. The wiring harness connector can be very difficult to disconnect without removing the intake manifold. The electrical connector is larger than the 19mm hex and a socket or box end wrench will not fit over the electrical connector, so you can only use an open end wrench to remove the ECT. Trying to R&R without removing the intake manifold can lead to a broken sensor. Two contrary removal tips: Removing the intake manifold makes it less than a 30 minute job. Removing the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (the rear-most of the three sensors, Volvo p/n 1346030 or Bosch 0280130032) is a little tougher, since it is buried under intake manifold runner number three. It helps to first remove assorted tubes and pipes, including the IAC valve and the knock sensor nearby, which is merely bolted into the block.Įngine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Replace both electrical connectors and reconnect the battery negative. Replace the knock sensor using a 12mm wrench to tighten it securely against the engine block. Tighten gently if required to stop any leaks. A 3/4" socket will not work, as the electrical connector housing is wider than the brass hex fitting used to secure the sensor. Tighten snug using a 3/4" open end wrench. To reinstall, gently screw the prepped sensor into the opening in the block. Keep the joint compound away from the threads. Then apply grey pipe joint compound (not the white, teflon-loaded joint compound) in a collar of compound on the underside of the sensor's lip, above the threads. Remove the old sensor and prep the new sensor by applying a thin coat of grease on the threads. The answer all along was to remove the sensor's molded-on electrical connector (destroying the sensor) and gain access to the hex with an offset 19mm box wrench or a 3/4 inch socket. This rotated off the hex and cracked the electrical connection at the top of the sensor. Then used the crow foot socket with a long extension. First tried the open end side of the stubby and although I could get it squarely on the hex head, I could not put enough force on the wrench to turn the sensor. I bought the stubby 19mm combination wrench and a 19mm crow foot socket. A 19mm socket will not work because of the width of the wiring connector. How do I remove the gauge temperature sensor? This is the front sensor under intake manifold runner number two with the two round pins. Put the new one in, tighten, then rinse away the slight leakage with a hose and top off the missing pint or less. The sealed system will glug out a little bit, then build a slight vacuum and stop. You really won't lose very much coolant at all. Get the old ECT loose, get the new one ready to go, then just pop the old one out and put the new one in as quickly as possible. When you remove any of the sensors, disconnect the battery negative cable.ĭo I Need to Drain the Coolant? Release any residual pressure in the system by opening the cap, then close it again. One of the temp sensor signals goes to the LH fuel injection computer, the other to the EZK ignition computer. Ground through the housing into the manifold. Thermistors are combined in one ECT sensor housing with two flat connectors and Behind the knock sensor under manifold runner three is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor - ECT -which is in effect two sensors in one housing. It has two round pin connectors, one signal, one ground. Number two, just ahead of the knock sensor which is bolted in at an angle. The Temperature Gauge Sensor is at the front under intake manifold runner See Electrical: Ignition for more details on Hall sensors in LH 2.2 and earlier distributors.ī230F of the vintage discussed, 1989-1995 have in effect three temp sensors. See FAQ section in Engine: Fuel Injection for AMM information. ECU = Engine Control Unit computer (either fuel injection or ignition)Īir Mass Meter.
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